A Journey to Two Enchanting Island Golf Resorts
COMO Laucala Island
When you touch down on the airstrip at Fiji’s COMO Laucala Island, and the propellers of the resort’s private King Air B300 twin turboprop circle to a stop, you deplane to be greeted by smiling resort staff members gathered under the palms to sing Bula Maleya, the traditional Fijian song of welcome. (“Bula” is how Fijians say hello—and they’ll call it out to you in friendly fashion one hundred times a day.) Your Laucala welcome ceremony goes on to include presentations of sweet, chilled mango beverages and fresh-cut cubes of spiced pineapple, the fruit that’s an international symbol of welcome. As a visitor toLaucala you are indeed fortunate to be welcomed to this private island, whose resort is numbered—without exaggeration—among the most exclusive and luxurious in the world. A short ride through tropical rainforest in a shiny black Land Rover to your luxury villa begins to reveal why. This isn’t just paradise. It’s paradise’s idea of paradise. Particularly for golfers.
The Republic of Fiji is a nation of 330 islands in the South Pacific, situated about 1100 miles north-northeast of New Zealand. Formed mostly by volcanic activity, about one-third of Fiji’s islands are inhabited, with the country’s main island, Viti Levu, home to about 75% of its citizens. From Los Angeles, it’s a 10-hour Fiji Airways flight to Nadi International Airport on Viti Levu. A smooth and scenic 50-minute trip aboard the eight-seat King Air brings you to Laucala, located in far north of the Fiji archipelago.
Laucala (pronounced Lau-tha-la) is the kind of island that you’d expect a criminal mastermind in a James Bond film to choose for his secret lair. Hilly, smothered by dense jungle, surrounded by jagged coral reefs, with monkey-faced bats circling overhead in broad daylight, it exudes a primordial energy that serves as a constant reminder that nature is in charge here. But it wasn’t an evil genius who made the island what it is today. Once the low-key private playground of Malcolm Forbes, it was later acquired by Austrian billionaire Dieter Mateschitz, founder of Red Bull. Mateschitz’s vision called for the careful development of small portions of the 3,500-acre island into an oasis from the world for family members, friends, and a limited number of other honored guests. Today, there are just 25 luxury villas at COMO Laucala Island, so at any given time, you can expect to be one of just a handful of guests whose every wish is granted by the resort’s hundreds of dedicated staff members.
Where You’ll Stay
Many of Laucala’s esteemed visitors, including a long list of celebrities who shall go nameless, come expressly to relax, and there are few better places in the world to do so. Ua, the gated villa I was escorted to in the resort’s Land Rover after arrival, was more like its own oceanfront compound than a run-of-the-mill luxury villa. With two lavish bedroom suites in separate thatched-roof wings, each connected by stone walkways to a large and comfortable shared lounge space between them, it’s an accommodation that’s custom-made for privacy and serenity. The lounge features beautiful natural stonework, gleaming wood floors, fully stocked mini-bar and wine refrigerator, artist-made jellyfish ceiling lamps, and every creature comfort an island guest could imagine. Robinson Crusoe and the cast of Gilligan’s Island would’ve been quite happy here, and, like me, never want to leave. Each suite offers its own king-size four-poster bed, sitting area, expansive bathroom, indoor and outdoor soaking tubs carved from enormous pieces of solid stone, and walls of windows looking out on the villa’s back garden and private sandy beach. Outdoors, there’s a private freshwater swimming pool, yoga station, multiple seating and sunning spots cushioned so comfortably you’ll be hard pressed not to fall asleep in them, tiki torches that come on automatically at dusk, and, of course, your private beach, where the soft sand and clear, turquoise Melanesian waters constantly beckon. No one could blame you if you wanted to just hole up for your entire visit behind the gates of this villa compound—or any of the resort’s other beachfront and clifftop villas—and just order all your food and beverages via room service, which is always at your beck and call. But with everything else that this incredible resort has to offer, that’s not really a possibility. At least it wasn’t for me.
The Golf Course
One thing Mateschitz was determined that his personal island retreat should have was a golf course—and not just a marginally enjoyable resort course, a championship course. He chose David McLay Kidd, designer of Bandon Dunes and many other acclaimed courses around the world, to create it. Kidd said no to the project several times. He was busy building The Castle Course in St. Andrews and several others at the time. But Mateschitz ultimately made Kidd an offer he couldn’t refuse. Three years later, the course debuted. But not before a storm at sea had drowned the special sprigs of bermudagrass Kidd had chosen for the greens and myriad other complications had arisen to show what an improbable venture it was. Fortunately for Mateschitz—and for the golfers who get to play Kidd’s Fiji creation—David and his team got the course done. And what a thrill ride it is.
“We had to hack through the jungle on foot,” Kidd said. “I’d identify a hole corridor, we’d open it up with a bulldozer, then look for the next one. There were no maps, no GPS. Just us and countless hectares of jungle and swamp. All that jungle would swallow the course back up in a heartbeat if they let it.”
“All that jungle” resembles the kind of habitat that King Kong would be right at home in. And it can come into play a lot if you’re not a straight-hitter. But the variety of holes and shots required, the constant elevation changes, and the sweeping views of the turquoise blue ocean from many of the holes make it an exhilarating experience. Great holes abound—with none more memorable than the course’s par fives. The downhill-then-uphill 3rd hole features hazards lined with coral and black lava. The 8th, a short but tight three-shotter called Kara (“The Devil’s Pitch”), calls on you to thread your uphill tee shot between a mountainside and a gully en route to a clifftop green with steep fall-offs all around and a dazzling view of the Pacific. Another standout par five, the 12th, snakes down to the edge of the beach, where the dramatically sloped green (like many at Laucala) yields few straight putts. From first tee to last green, you’re playing smack-dab in the middle of a tropical rainforest, taking on a course capable of testing the world’s best players, with course conditions rivaling the finest private clubs on the planet. And your foursome (which will hopefully include the club’s genial and gregarious teaching pro, Wilame) is unlikely to see another soul the entire day. Feel like stopping after eight holes and having some lunch and a beer overlooking the sea? A quick text will make it happen. Want to show up and play just a few holes in the hour before sunset? No problem. You’re not just on Fiji time, you’re on Laucala time, where anything you desire isn’t just possible, it’s encouraged. The tee is yours. The course is yours. Enjoy it. I certainly did, and each time out, it revealed a bit more of itself, showing me where to place tee shots to have the best approaches to the canted greens, how to club myself in various winds on the fine quartet of par threes, which bunkers to aim at and which to avoid at all costs. Like all great courses, it’s as challenging mentally as physically. And few in the world can rival it for sheer beauty.
Off-Course Activities
Not everyone who makes the journey to Laucala goes there just to play golf. And even golfers will want to explore the wealth of other experiences offered at the resort. These begin in the crystal-clear waters surrounding the island, where diving excursions both within and beyond the reef ringing its shores—and snorkeling sessions closer to land—reveal an underwater world teeming with brilliantly colored fish and other sea life. Deep-sea fishing on the resort’s Riviera Open Flybridge yacht is another option, with anglers angling to land one of Fiji’s famous yellowfin tuna, blue and black marlin, wahoo, Pacific sailfish, giant trevally, and dolphin fish. Sailors looking to cruise the waters around Lacaula have their choice of Hobie Cats, Phantoms, Nacras, Lasers, and even single-seat Fijian Takias. Or you can take to the water on Amanda, a crewed, Dragon-class boat that participated in the 1948 Olympics, or the sailing yacht Rere Ahi, a more intimate vessel that’s ideal for a sunset cruise or a day spent searching for a spot to enjoy a castaway beach picnic. Kayaking is another option, as are surfing, kitesurfing, windsurfing, wakeboarding, kneeboarding, and even jet skiing. You can’t come to a South Pacific island—especially this island—and not take advantage of the recreational opportunities accorded by its pristine waters. At Laucala, they make it ever so easy to do.
On land, your options for adventure multiply. In addition to world-class golf, the island is traversed by trails that are ideal for hiking, mountain biking, and even horseback riding. You can also ride the resort’s gentle horses through the island’s coconut plantation, along the broad beach, or even go for a bareback ride/swim in the ocean. Fancy some tennis? The courts await, and don’t miss the opportunity to take a lesson or play a match with Rupeni, the island’s ever-smiling tennis pro, who will cheerfully serve up an ice-cold Fiji Gold beer for you afterward—or maybe two. The resort’s fitness center, as you’d expect, has everything it should. Treadmills, bikes, ellipticals, rowing machines, weight machines and free weights, yoga mats, Pilates gear—it’s all right there, as is a personal trainer should you wish to consult one.
Maybe you just feel like swimming. The resort’s expansive pool complex, replete with its own unique infinity pool and pool bar, is the kind of place you could stay all day. The beach club has its own bar, too, making it the preferred spot for a midday lunch after a sunny morning spent on the pristine white-sand beach.
Then there’s the spa, the COMO Shambala Retreat, where wellness is a celebration starring many of the fresh, nourishing resources that can be found in Fiji, including local herbs, flowers, fruits, stones and soils. Located high on a hilltop under the shade of tall palms, Shambala specializes in holistic wellness treatments that combine modern science with ancient practices to align body, mind, and spirit. I can say from experience that when your massage session there ends, your body will be rejuvenated and your mind in an unprecedented state of calm. After an active day on the water or the golf course, it’s more than an indulgence. It’s a complete rebalancing and the perfect way to prepare for an invigorating evening.
Culinary Options
Where to begin your evening is a challenging question. The Beach Bar will get a lot of votes, as will the Rock Lounge, a clifftop watering hole with expansive views of the bright blue waters below. For a preprandial beverage, you can’t go wrong with either one. When it’s time for dinner, you have two wonderful—and wonderfully different—choices. The Plantation House is the more formal of the two. Its stylish bar and indoor-outdoor restaurant are both intimate venues where the sterling service is only equaled by the quality of the cuisine. The journey from farm to table is a short one at Laucala. The resort has its own 240-acre organic farm, replete with orchards, gardens, livestock areas and more. The Wagyu sirloin steak you enjoy for dinner at The Plantation House and fresh eggs that go into your breakfast omelette will have come from this farm. As will the chicken or pork that, along with local seafood, may be central to the exquisite and shareable pan-Asian fusion dishes served at the treetop Seagrass Lounge and Restaurant. At sunset, it’s the island’s go-to spot, offering breathtaking views of the sparkling sea and neighboring islands of Qamea and Taveuni.
When you leave Laucala Island, as everyone must eventually bring themselves to do, staff members will again gather at the airstrip, this time to farewell you by singing Isa Lei, the Fijian song that acknowledges the pain of having to say goodbye. And just before you board the King Air for your flight back to Viti Nevu to play more golf, or to travel onward to your home island or another destination, they place a beautiful, one-of-a-kind, polished shell amulet around your neck. It’s both a departure gift and a symbol that you’re now a permanent part of a very special Fijian community, one whose memories are certain to remain in your mind until Laucala calls out to you to return.
InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa
Fiji’s other must-play golf course is affiliated with the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa, an expansive, 35-acre resort property situated in a secluded and peaceful corner of Viti Nevu, less than an hour’s drive from Nadi. The 266-room resort was designed to offer all the intimacy of a traditional Fijian village, with multi-unit, low-rise bures arranged in clusters around the property and the island’s best beach within walking distance of each. Whether you choose an ocean-view, lagoon-view, or garden-view accommodation—or one of the lavish Club InterContinental suites with private plunge pool—you’ll know you’re in a tropical utopia. Club InterContinental guests check in at a dedicated clubhouse, where breakfasts are served and happy hour gatherings held overlooking the club’s own hilltop pool, with birds-eye views of the resort and the deep-blue sea stretching out beneath you.
Natadola Bay Golf Course
Just up the road, a two-minute drive from the resort, Natadola Bay is a championship course that served for many years as the site of the Australasian Tour’s Fiji International, won by a list of intrepid pros that includes Americans Brandt Snedeker and Matt Kuchar. The course was designed by Fijian native Vijay Singh, and it’s every inch a true test of golfing skill, with a mix of some open, links-like holes, a stretch of oceanfront stunners, and a trail of holes in between that take you into a deep gully framed by dense tropical vegetation.
The course’s opening holes, a trio of long par fours, put you on alert that your day at Natadola Bay will be no easy walk in the park—especially if the Fijian winds are blowing. The sea is in view for 15 of the 18 holes you’ll play here, and at the long, par-three 4th hole, it could also come into play since the beach borders the entire left side of the hole. The inland holes that weave through tunnels of tangled jungle may be the course’s most memorable: the par-five 6th hole with its clifftop tee and tabletop green; the dropshot par-three 7th; the steeply downhill-then steeply uphill, par-four 8th; and the ever-more-downward, dogleg-right 9th. Each presents a unique challenge and is a postcard waiting to happen. The back nine runs you back to the shore, with the downhill par-four 12th hole a particular favorite. Do you dare to try to drive the green with water bordering the entire right side of the fairway and guarding the front of the putting surface? More water awaits at the 14th and 16th holes, with the short but pesky par-three 15th in between. By the time you make your way up the fairway of the home hole toward the towering clubhouse, its design a magnificent monument to South Pacific architecture, you will have earned the cool towel, fine lunch, and chilled beverages that await you there.
Off-Course Experiences
As at Laucala, golf is just one of many exciting diversions offered at the InterContinental Fiji. Many guests may want to spend the majority of their time sunning on the beach, walking along the picturesque tropical lagoon, or just relaxing in one of the resort’s many oceanfront sun lounges and cabanas. But there are many more opportunities for fun in the sun. Diving and snorkeling adventures begin at Reef Safari, located near the resort’s expansive adults’ pool, and guests can also avail themselves there of kayaks, paddle boards, boogie boards, and even sign up for a coral planting expedition created to help bolster a precious marine ecosystem. There’s a huge kids’ pool, too, as the resort is popular with families on holiday. And you won’t want to miss the opportunity to experience Spa InterContinental, where there’s a wide range of treatments designed for the restoration of mind, body, and soul ranging from massages and skincare therapies to a unique, infrared sauna set in its own relaxed, outdoor, tropical garden.
Culinary Options Galore
Man does not live by sun and fun alone—and neither do Fiji’s women and children visitors. That’s where the resort’s four primary food and beverage outlets come into play. For starters, there’s Sansana, located on the ground-level floor of the main resort building adjacent to the beach and overlooking the tracks on which a sugar cane plantation’s narrow-gauge train once traveled. It’s the place for open-air buffet breakfasts, a la carte lunches, and themed buffet dinners each day. Just up the beach near the adults’ pool, there’s the Toba Bar & Grill, where you can feast on pizza from their stone-fired oven, burgers, pasta, or any of their many healthy options like poke bowls and salads. The Toba staff will also be delighted to bring beverages to your poolside lounger or cabana. At the Kama Lounge, craft cocktails and bar snack nibbles are the order of the day—and evening. There’s a House of Angostura fresh coconut and sugarcane bar there, where you can sample rums from that acclaimed, 200-year-old brand served with fresh coconut and sugar cane juice. Finally, there’s Navo, the resort’s most elegant and formal eatery, where you can enjoy both breakfast and dinner in a grand, open-air space overlooking both the beach and lagoon. The menu features local specialties like rock lobster from Fiji’s Yasawa Islands, fresh fish from the Koro Sea, crabs from local villages, and seasonal vegetables from the neighboring Sigatoka Valley.
There’s entertainment at the resort, too—in the form of live music but also a daily torch lighting ceremony. Torch lighting is a significant aspect of traditional Fijian life, and the ceremonial warriors who perform this ritual around the resort each day at dusk put on an enthralling show, with dance, drumming, call-outs to guests, and the magic of fire. Younger guests are invited to become Fijian warriors for a day and participate in these nightly ceremonies themselves.
One last note about the Fiji InterContinental… like many of Fiji’s larger resorts, it’s owned and operated by the Fijian people. Fijians pay into a retirement fund, the Fiji National Provident Fund, which then invests in the creation and management of resort properties for visitors to enjoy. The resorts provide employment for citizens, revenue for the government, and retirement funds for all Fijians. This allows Fijians not just to decide how they want these resorts to operate, it enables them to ensure that sustainability goals for resource conservation are met. It’s a smart system, and one that yields wonderful visitor experiences.
Getting To—And Around—Fiji
Getting to Fiji is easy—and wonderfully comfortable. Fiji Airways flies modern Airbus A350 widebody jets from Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Dallas straight to Nadi International Airport on Viti Levu. These quiet and roomy A350s have one of the airline industry’s best business class seats—they’re private, self-contained pods, really, with lie-flat seats. And the Fiji Airways crews are just as warm and hospitable as the Fijians you’ll meet on land. Once in Fiji, call on the team at Rosie’s Holidays for all your transportation needs. Rosie’s operates one of Fiji’s largest and most modern transportation fleets for airport transfers or excursions to other parts of Viti Nevu (including Suva, Fiji’s capital city, and Denerau, where there’s a third 18-hole course to play). South Pacific travelers may also want to consider that from Nadi, it’s but a short hop to Australia, making Fiji the perfect stopover point for anyone looking to pair a visit to paradise with a second one to Oz—or to nearby New Zealand. But don’t miss out on the opportunity to experience all that Fiji has to offer first. Whether you go luxe and stay at the InterContinental, or super-super-luxe and spend a few days at Lacaula Island, your experience will be one that’s sure to have you saying vinaka over and over when you leave. That’s Fijian for thank you.
