The Dunbar Golf Club’s 1856 clubhouse is quite quaint with a bar/restaurant and locker rooms downstairs. An ancient spiral staircase leads to the upstairs offices where we met Cameron Byrne. He thought it a coincidence that his screen’s wallpaper changed to an Arizona scene when we walked in.
History and Anecdotes
We shared our lean into their history, that we absolutely had to play at the Dunbar Golf Club during this trip to Scotland because a great grandfather to the seventh was in the battle there in 1650. It was a massacre which the Scots lost even though Cromwell’s British army was very ill. If only the Scots had stayed on the hill rather than descend to the burn as commanded, our surviving ancestor, Daniel Cone may not have been marched to England and shipped off to New England as an indentured servant.
Cameron’s associate Verena sheepishly disclosed that she is English and it’s tough to admit the outcome of the battle there at Dunbar. We laughed and said we didn’t hold it against her. We told her that one Scottish friend jokingly said, “They did you a favor.”
Interesting Encounters
We were going to have a cup of coffee downstairs but decided to proceed to the pro shop next to the first tee and check in early. As we repeated the story in the shop, we had an excited tap on the shoulder for a different coincidence. It was the President of Scottish Prisoners of War Society. Who knew there was such an organization? He showed their website and looked up Daniel Cone on their records, confirming the family story. The crazy thing is that he was from Texas and did not even golf but because his name is David Dunbar and he is chieftain of the clan Dunbar, he had come to the shop for swag with his name. If we had the coffee, we would have missed him. Timing really is everything and we were where we were supposed to be.
The Course
We went outside together to look at the very hill of the battle and throughout the round there was a deep-rooted sense of belonging to this place, especially when we crossed the burns that run through the course. Those burns are furnished with heavy duty ball retrievers on the side and sizeable fish within.
Callum the starter explained the layout and mentioned that ball carry depends on whether the wind is “for or ag’in ya.” The first two holes run back and forth below the battleground and the third is a par three facing the sea with the green in front of the clubhouse windows for all to observe performance, good or poor. Then a break in a tall stone wall delivers golfers to the seaside holes. Dunbar is a flatter course, playing very fair with the most findable grass on the Scotland circuit. Bells ring out for second shot safety on a few blind hills.
The Sea Side
The sea is magical and mesmerizing from 3-17, not like some links view teases. Swans were swimming and barges at work as we were at play. A Stevenson lighthouse beacons in the far side and when the sun breaks through the clouds it shimmers on the sea bass rock boulder, akin to Ailsa Craig in Ayrshire.
Location and Surroundings
Dunbar is in East Lothian, Scotland less than an hour from Edinburg and less than two from St. Andrews. East Lothian is the Golf Coast of Scotland and while we were there in July, Scottish Open signs were erected for play at the Renaissance. There are numerous other fine courses to play, beaches to walk and Scottish villages to explore.
Additional Trivia
Having met a North Berwick member while staying at Trump Turnberry on the other coast, we had to swing by for a look. This is where LPGA Katrina Matthews learned to play at age 7 and has a house today. Jordan Spieth owns a couple flats and brought pros to practice a week later before the Open at Royal Troon. More rich history combines with seaside links to delight golfers. Ben Sayer taught King George the 5th here and the original lower pro shop still stands from 1880.
The same North Berwick member related that an American pro played an Open qualifier at Dunbar for the St. Andrews event one year and set a course record of 64. He said something to the effect of, “What a quaint little course, wait until tomorrow.” But when tomorrow came, he shot an 84 score and missed the cut.
Conclusion
Dunbar is somewhat under the radar and under rated, but not to be underestimated for its test of golf. If you want to have your cake by the ocean and eat it too, Dunbar is for you. It is a joy to play. https://www.dunbargolfclub.com/
