Islay (pronounced Eye-la) is the Queen of the Hebrides, a little island just off the Atlantic west coast of Scotland, and home to The Machrie. Ferries carry cars or pedestrians in style from the mainland to Port Ellen where The Machrie is a short ride away, driving on the left side. Most roads are single lane with periodic turnouts to pull in, when a vehicle is approaching from the other direction. When the cars pass, drivers signal a thanks. It is a very courteous process and a testament to the tranquility of the population on Islay which is mostly generationally native.
And mostly, the population works in the distilleries, tourism or fishing industries. The Machrie is the best of properties for staying to play the only golf course on Islay. Sheep that formally had to be herded off holes, are now in their pastures but still the first to greet guests to The Machrie. Recent renovations at the luxury hotel have created well-appointed rooms blending modern comfort with classic charm. Contemporary art is showcased throughout.
The dining experience features locally sourced ingredients, showcasing flavors of Islay. Chef Callum has been here for two years and recommends the lamb, pork belly, fresh fish and the best oysters in the world. They are huge, tasty, and so creamy you can cut them with a knife. His fallow deer for venison are shot to order on Islay. That’s fresh.
Sky lights and large window views of the panoramic course and sea define the ambience. Jackson and other bartenders concoct a special drink of the week and are familiar with the nine distilleries on Islay. Michelle who does not consume alcohol, says the tours are fun regardless. “Everyone on tours is lovely, making it interesting for all and you’re spoiled for choice.” Her favorite is Ardbeg for its eclectic decor. We swung by six of the nine on separate occasions for only a wee dram tasting and to appreciate the artisans’ lingo and the views. On Islay, it seems everywhere has a sea view or is in walking distance of one.
The Machrie Golf Course is no exception, rather, it is an exceptional layout. The sea comes into view on many of the holes but not into play. It is a fetching course. That’s to say it’s beautiful, and you’re always at risk of fetching your balls out of the fields of fescue mixed with the country’s prickly purple thistle and feathery ferns, waving in the ever-present wind. It’s over hill and dale and burns (streams), with lots of blind shots, pushing the trolley or carrying your bag.
Care should be taken in the grass, or you might be aghast at an asp-like adder, not necessarily advised by anyone, however a “fourball” of members from Gleneagles who helicoptered over, shared a video of one on the 17th green. We didn’t realize when playing and fortunately only encountered giant jackrabbits darting in and out.
We played through intermittent sun, rain and chilly wind, a couple for all seasons. Course conditioning is superb with crews implementing enhancements. Our prettiest hole award goes to #9. The par 3 captures all the essence of links golf with dune landscape, wispy grass, pot bunkers and the majestic sea waves in front and center view from the tee box.After golf, enjoy high tea with treats, fireside, in the upstairs lounge next to the dining room, overlooking the 18th green. Or enjoy a Guinness with the mesmerizing view. It’s a fun spot to meet and share with other travelers.
Ollie and Marianne from Glasgow honeymooned here and return every couple of years for holiday. They named their daughter Islay because Ollie couldn’t spell Bunnahabhain, their favorite distillery. Bunnahabhain was built in 1880 at the mouth of the river, on the sound of Islay next to Jura where George Orwell wrote 1984. It is known for the most unpeated whiskeys on Islay.
Laphroaig is one of the most iconic distilleries on the island and has medicinal or seaweed notes. It is in Port Ellen along the rugged coast as is Ardbeg and Lagavulin which was established in 1816.
Bowmore is the first recorded distillery dating back to 1779, offering a range of whiskeys with a balance of peat smoke and sherry cask sweetness. The round church in town was built so the devil could not hide in a corner. Caol Ila is the largest distillery, established in 1846 and most famous for the Johnnie Walker line. A century later, Ardnahoe opened in 2019 on the northern shore.
While in the north, we happened on to Port Askaig Hotel, built in the 16th century for the drivers. A ferry transports 1/2 mile to Jura from this port but is under maintenance this year, so Maryann was happy to have clients. Her parents in law bought it in 1958 and when she was young, on holiday with her aunties, she fell in love with the son and decided to stay on. “Married a man, end of story,” she quipped. But her cousin is the world master distiller, John Mc Ewan shown in an old photo with her mom, and they have many stories old, and new to tell.
Besides the golf and distilleries, hikes are popular, especially on the beach. Rubber boots stand in the entrance of The Machrie to borrow for hiking through the grass to the beach with boot jacks for removal upon return. Wild swimming is a thing on Islay, a brief exhilarating dip in the sea but be sure to know where it is safe, given the crazy tides.Ferry tales come true on Islay if you can catch one to stay at The Machrie. A short flight from Glasgow is another option. Either way, Islay delivers a sense of place like no other and that place is peaceful. www.themachrie.com.
